U.S. President Cannot be Beyond Criticism

October 21st, 2019

To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but it is morally treasonable to the American public.

— President Theodore Roosevelt

 

To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but it is morally treasonable to the American public. www.walled-in-berlin.com

To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but it is morally treasonable to the American public. www.walled-in-berlin.com

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic and current events, people, places and food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.

 

Pan-European Picnic and German Reunification

October 14th, 2019

 

The Pan-European Picnic was the first in a series of events that dealt fatal blows to the Berlin Wall, brought it down completely a few months later and set the stage for German Reunification. Heartfelt thanks must go to the courageous leaders and border guards of Hungary and Austria who, on 19 August 1989, allowed hundreds of East Germans to cross the border from communist Hungary into democratic Austria. Tens of thousands followed their path.

Purpose of the Pan-European Picnic

On 2 May 1989, Hungary began dismantling the electrified fence along its border with Austria. Eager to renew friendships across the Iron Curtain, the organizers of the Pan-European Picnic arranged for people on both sides of the border to gather for an afternoon of music and speeches. To allow participants to cross back and forth during the event, they temporarily opened the border for a few hours. Planned mainly to show support for open borders and a reunited Europe, the picnic ended up being far more than that.

What happened at the Pan-European Picnic?

About 100 dignitaries were invited to the friendship picnic, which was held in a meadow at the dividing line between the Communist bloc and the west. To everyone’s surprise, 600-900 East Germans also showed up at the appointed time. They had been vacationing in the region. But on 9 August 1989, they had more than holidays on their minds. Rumors had been circulating that the border with Austria was porous. To the vacationing East Germans, these whisperings were analogous to an invitation to make a break for the west.

Big Dilemma for the Border Guards

Apparently tipped off by unidentified diplomats working behind the scenes, the East Germans arrived en masse at the  border, catching the Hungarian guards by surprise. The sentries had no special orders. They unable to reach their superiors. The unexpected situation placed the border guards in a moral dilemma. It was their duty to stop the East Germans from crossing the border and to use force, if necessary. Allowing them to pass was a punishable dereliction of duty. A split-second decision with potentially far-reaching consequences had to be made. Since these run-away East Germans with their picnic baskets and strollers seemed to be peaceful, the guards decided to turn their backs on them. Instead, they focused on checking the Austrian picnic guests’ documents. This on-the-spot decision changed the world. Over the next few weeks, 70,000 East Germans exited East Germany through Hungary and Austria on their way to West Germany.

Who Orchestrated the Events?

Thirty years later, the question of who orchestrated the events of August 19, 1989, still remains unanswered. Many suspect behind the scenes efforts. Why did the Heads of State of Russia, Hungary and Austria chose not to interfere? Who distributed the sacks of leaflets, conveniently printed in German and Hungarian in advance of August 19? Was the West German Intelligence community involved? Whatever the case, the events surrounding the Pan-European Picnic opened the door to the Fall of the Berlin Wall three months later and to German reunification a year later.

Monument at the Pan-European Picnic site

Since 2009, a monument by Miklos Melocco commemorates the picnic site. It is named “Breakthrough” and its engraving reads, “On August 19th 1989 an enslaved people opened the gates of its prison so that another enslaved people could walk out into freedom”. http://turizmus.sopron.hu/en/info/sights/history-of-sopron/paneuropean-picnic.html

 

Monument by Miklos Melocco at the site of the Pan-European Picnic. It is named “Breakthrough.” The inscription reads, “On August 19th 1989 an enslaved people opened the gates of its prison so that another enslaved people could walk out into freedom.” www.walled-in-berlin.com

Monument by Miklos Melocco at the site of the Pan-European Picnic. It is named “Breakthrough.” The inscription reads, “On August 19th 1989 an enslaved people opened the gates of its prison so that another enslaved people could walk out into freedom.” www.walled-in-berlin.com

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic and current events, people, places and food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.

 

When have you reached adulthood?

October 7th, 2019

You have reached adulthood when you quit using drugs to trip out and start using drugs to feel normal.

— Anonymous

 

Bayer Aspirin, one of the world's favorite medications for pain, fever and inflammation since 1897. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2018. www.walled-in-berlin.com

You have reached adulthood when you quit using drugs to trip out and start using drugs to feel normal. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2018. www.walled-in-berlin.com

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic and current events, people, places and food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.

 

One More Berliner Weisse Before Summer Ends

September 30th, 2019

Berliner Weisse, only available in the summer, is a delicious thirst-quencher. Among wheat beers, it is in a class of its own. Napoleon fell in love with this beverage when he conquered Europe during the first part of the 19th century and is said to have referred to it as the Champagne of the North.

This refreshingly tangy beverage is light, carbonated and has a low alcohol content. Its unique sour taste results from fermenting with a combination of yeast and lactobacillus bacteria. That’s right, these are the same”friendly” bacteria that live in our digestive, urinary, and genital systems and are found in yoghurt. And as we already know, lactobacillus bacteria are extremely healthful and good for the digestion.

Origin of Berliner Weisse

The exact origin of Berliner Weisse is unknown. Most likely, this delicious light wheat beer does come to us from Berlin, Germany, as the name suggests. And quite possibly, its production goes back to the Huguenots. These French Protestants – largely Calvinists – suffered severe persecution at the hands of the Catholic majority in France and Switzerland during the 16thand 17thcenturies. Thousands of them emigrated from their homelands, and many resettled in the Brandenburg area of Germany.

Where Weisse is Produced Today

Only two breweries in Germany still produce Berliner Weisse: Schultheiss Brauerei GmbH and Berliner Kindl Brauerei AG. The brewers at Berliner Kindl have developed a method, which omits bottle fermentation and allows the beer to mature in pressurized tanks.

Berliner Kindl logo in Berlin, Germany. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2019. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Berliner Kindl logo in Berlin, Germany. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2019. www.walled-in-berlin.com

 

These days, Berliner Weisse (sometimes called “Berlin White” in the United States) is also produced by a number of U.S. breweries.

Difference between Pale Ale and Berliner Weisse

American pale ales are predominantly top-fermented (warm fermented) and made with pale malt. https://beerandbrewing.com/dictionary/Vvte2fIth4/ The result is a strong hoppy flavor with a slightly bitter taste and an alcohol content by volume of anywhere between 4.5% and 9%. Berliner Weisse, on the other hand, is typically light in flavor, low in hops and tastes slightly yeasty. It is made with wheat malt as well as barley malt, and its alcohol content rarely exceeds 4%.

Berliner Weisse mit Schuss

In Berlin, it is common to drink Berliner Weisse mit Schuss (Weisse with a shot). The shot typically consists of a splash of raspberry or woodruff syrup. Woodruff is a small medicinal plant that grows in the woods and has a vanilla-like flavor. It is not well known in the United States. A classic Berliner Weisse is enjoyed from a special glass and sipped with a straw. If you can’t decide on the flavor, just order an Ampel (a traffic light), and the waiter will bring three small glasses of Weisse: One is filled with plain Weisse, one with Weisse with raspberry syrup, and a third one with Weisse with woodruff syrup.

Berliner Weisse mit Schuss (one with raspberry one with woodruff flavor) www.walled-in-berlin.com

Berliner Weisse mit Schuss (one with raspberry one with woodruff flavor) www.walled-in-berlin.com

Na denn PROST!

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic or current events, people, places or food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.

 

Life is like a camera

September 23rd, 2019

Life is like a camera. Focus on what’s important. Capture the good times. Develop from the negatives. And if things don’t work out, take another shot.

— Anonymous

 

Life is like a camera. Focus on what's important. Capture the good times. Develop from the negatives. And if things don't work out, take another shot. Image by Alexander-777 from Pixabay. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Life is like a camera. Focus on what’s important. Capture the good times. Develop from the negatives. And if things don’t work out, take another shot. Image by Alexander-777 from Pixabay. www.walled-in-berlin.com

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic and current events, people, places and food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.

 

Berlin’s International Congress Center

September 16th, 2019

 

Berlin’s International Congress Center (Internationales Congress Centrum Berlin) opened in 1979 and closed in 2014. From the outside it looks futuristic with its aluminum facade in the high-tech style of the 1970s. Inside it reveals lots of retro charm. With a length of 1,050 feet long, a width of 262 feet wide and a height of 131 feet, the International Congress Center can accommodate slightly more than 20,000 guests. A bridge links the “ICC” to the exhibition grounds across the street, the Messe Berlin. For 25 years, the International Congress Center made Berlin the No. 1 congress city in Germany and maybe even one of the top congress cities in the world.

Berlin's International Congress Center (ICC), opened in 1979 and closed in 2014. When and if it reopens agains remains uncertain. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2019. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Berlin’s International Congress Center (ICC), opened in 1979 and closed in 2014. When and if it reopens again remains uncertain. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2019. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Why West Berlin constructed an International Congress Center

At the end of the 1960s, Berlin was a divided city with West Berlin a capitalist island surrounded by a Communist sea. When experts predicted a steady increase in the number of conventions and trade shows held around the world, West Berlin jumped on the band wagon. It wanted to boost its economy, and congress centers can be a profitable source of income. Until then, West Berlin had hosted such events in its 1957 Congress Hall (Kongresshalle), which barely seated 1,200 participants. With a new and much larger International Congress Center, West Berlin hoped to redefine itself as a congress destination. Besides, East Berlin had built the Palace of the Republic (Palast der Republik) only three years earlier, and the West wanted to keep up. The ICC became the most expensive construction project in West Berlin since World War II, costing almost one billion marks.

Design Competition for the International Congress Center

In 1966, West Berlin held a design competition for the new congress center. Ralf Schueler and Ursulina Schueler-Witte, a young and relatively unknown husband-and-wife architect team, won the contest. Construction began in 1975. It was six years after the first moon landing, and the space-age may have influenced the design. The ultramodern building soon became known in West Berlin as the “spaceship.” Nonetheless, the design was a complete success. It received many awards. At its grand opening in 1979, German President Walter Scheel predicted that the ICC would still stand when the Pyramid of Cheops had decayed.

Asbestos-contaminated ICC and Palace of the Republic

Mr. Scheel may have been correct in assuming that the ICC’s concrete design might outlast the Pyramid of Cheops, but he was unaware of the dangers of asbestos. In 2014, the International Congress Center closed for asbestos removal, but the costs turned out to be prohibitive. The Palace of theRepublic in East Berlin, which had opened in 1976, was equally contaminated. While the latter was demolished in 2006 to give way to the construction of the Stadtschloss Berlin (Berlin City Place), the International Congress Center didn’t close to conventions until 2014. Aside from housing refugees between 2015 and 2017, it continues to remain closed while officials argue over who will foot the bill for asbestos removal and needed upgrades and how the center might be used in the future.

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic and current events, people, places and food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.

 

Many Shades of Deception

September 9th, 2019

The English language has 112 words for deception, according to one count, each with a different shade of meaning: collusion, fake news, malingering, self-deception, confabulation, prevarication, exaggeration, denial to name a few.

— Robert Marantz Henig

Can you add to this list?

 

The English language has 112 words for deception, according to one count, each with a different shade of meaning. Image by Open ClipArt-Vectors from Pixabay, www.walled-in-berlin.com

The English language has 112 words for deception, according to one count, each with a different shade of meaning. Image by Open ClipArt-Vectors from Pixabay, www.walled-in-berlin.com

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic and current events, people, places and food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.

 

Life in former East Germany then and now

September 2nd, 2019

Life in former East Germany wasn’t all roses. We know that. That’s why the East German people fought hard to tear down the hated wall that divided East from West Germany. Yet, thirty years after the fall of the Berlin Wall, some former East Germans, now living in the eastern part of reunited Germany, say that life in former East Germany wasn’t all that bad after all. As proof they cite that current unemployment in their part of the country is still nearly twice as high as in the West. Pay is still lower. None of Germany’s biggest 30 companies is based in the east, and only one in five leading political posts is held by East Germans. On top of that, low rents are gone. So are inexpensive everyday groceries, readily available free child care and social security from cradle to grave. Also gone are state-subsidized inexpensive vacations. All true.

The Downside to Life in Former East Germany

However, the people who now say that life in former East German wasn’t all that bad seem to have forgotten that life also had a dark side back then. What about the long lines consumer had to stand in to buy almost anything? Back then, people had to queue up for everything from fresh fruit and chocolate to ordinary consumer goods, such as television sets, radios, appliances and spare parts. The reason for the shortages was that East Germany exported many of its products to the West for hard cash and operated outdated and inefficient factories. That resulted in many products not being available for purchase by the average East German consumer.

Typical line in front of a butcher shop in Eberswalde, former East Germany. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 1990. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Typical line in front of a butcher shop in Eberswalde, former East Germany. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 1990. www.walled-in-berlin.com

A Consequence of artificially low prices in Former East Germany

East Germany’s socialist government kept the prices for basic consumer goods and groceries artificially low to ensure that everyone could afford essential goods. But it also meant that because basic goods were not always available, consumers stocked up whenever they could. They traded items they did not need for those they did need. Sales personnel often added to shortages by quietly reserving particularly desirable items for “special” clients and placing them under – not on top of – the counter. They then had to stoop down (“buecken” in German) to fetch the item. These cleverly concealed items were jokingly referred to as Bueckware (stoop merchandise).

A Tale of Resourcefulness in Former East Germany

Relatives of mine related a not uncommon story. They lived in a small town in former East Germany and grew raspberries in the backyard each summer. The government-owned stores (HO) sold fresh fruit at affordable, preset prices. I don’t remember the exact number, but let’s say raspberries normally sold for 1.00 Mark per pound. Whenever the HO did not have much fruit for sale but wanted to fill their shelves, they gladly paid the locals 3.00 Marks per pound for their berries. That was a good deal for my kin, but they could improve their lot even further by selling the berries to the store through the back door for 3.00 Marks per pound and buying them back at the front door for 1.00 Mark per pound. They now had the raspberries back and made a 2.00 Mark profit.

Is Life in East Germany Better or Worse since Reunification?

So, to the people who are disenchanted with their lot in reunited Germany, I want to say, “Don’t forget, life in former East Germany wasn’t all milk and honey either. Yes, life in reunited Germany has its problems, but so did life in former East Germany. Do you really want to deal with the Stasi, the travel ban, the lack of freedom and the shortages again? Wouldn’t it make more sense to work hard on fixing current problems?”

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic and current events, people, places and food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.

 

I am the Chosen One – True Test of Civilization

August 26th, 2019

The true test of civilization is not the census, nor the size of the cities, nor the economy, but the kind of man that the country turns out.

— Ralph Waldo Emerson.

What would Emerson have said had he heard Donald Trump declare on 21 August 2019, “I am the chosen One” along with a glance toward the sky?

"I am the chosen One," said Donald Trump. The true test of civilization is not the census, nor the size of the cities, nor the economy, but the kind of man that the country turns out," said Ralph Waldo Emerson. www.walled-in-berlin.com

“I am the chosen One,” said Donald Trump. “The true test of civilization is not the census, nor the size of the cities, nor the economy, but the kind of man that the country turns out,” said Ralph Waldo Emerson. www.walled-in-berlin.com

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic and current events, people, places and food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.

 

 

 

Eiskeller Boy With Chutzpah Adds to Berlin Wall Drama

August 19th, 2019

 

Eiskeller is a tiny rural community along the western boundary of Berlin. The area of less than 0.20 square miles was a West Berlin exclave during the Cold War and connected to West Berlin proper by a narrow 13-foot wide road. Of course, both sides of the road were regularly patrolled by East German police to make sure that East German citizens would not defect to the west by way to Eiskeller. Also known as the coldest spot in all of Berlin (hence the name “ice cellar),” this small community added some intrigue to Cold War history. Here is what happened:

Eiskeller Boy is Detained by East German Guards

Erwin Schabe was a twelve-year-old schoolboy in 1961 when the Berlin Wall went up. He lived with his parents in their Eiskeller home and attended school in the West Berlin district of Spandau, just half a mile down the road. Every day, he rode his bike down the only road to Spandau. One day, he told his parents that he did not want to go to school that day because East German police had detained him the day before. Now he was afraid of riding his bike down that lonely stretch of road.

British Occupation Forces Provide Protection

Erwin’s parents immediately reported the incident to the British Occupation Forces since Eiskeller was located in the British Zone. In order to ward off an International incident, British military police quickly came to Erwin’s aid. For the next few days, a British armored reconnaissance vehicle accompanied the boy on his half-mile ride to school.

 

A British armored reconnaissance vehicle accompanies Erwin Schabe along the half mile from Eiskeller to Spandau in 1961, shortly after the construction of the Berlin Wall. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2019. www.walled-in-berlin.com

A British armored reconnaissance vehicle accompanies Erwin Schabe along the half mile from Eiskeller to Spandau in 1961, shortly after the construction of the Berlin Wall. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2019. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Without delay, the photo went around the world, showing little Erwin on his bike holding a sack lunch and followed by a British military vehicle. Instantly, he became famous and received letters of encouragement and praise from people throughout Germany. A West Germany civil servant even invited him to vacation in West Germany for a week. That’s as much of the story I was familiar with until recently.

My 2019 visit to Eiskeller

Imagine my surprise when I read that Erwin Schabe publicly admitted 33 years later that his story was pure fiction. https://www.berliner-zeitung.de/schulschwaenzer-gesteht-nach-33-jahren-seinen-streich–freiheits-kind–enttarnt-17280662 The Berlin rascal had invented the incident because he needed an excuse that would allow him to skip school that day.

 

Road from Eiskeller to Spandau in 2019 (now paved). The same road Erwin Schabe took to school in 1961. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2019. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Road from Eiskeller to Spandau in 2019 (now paved). The same road Erwin Schabe took to school in 1961. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2019. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Curious about what the half-mile Eiskeller road might look like today, I visited the tiny community, now home to three families, on a recent visit to Berlin. Located on the edge of the Spandau woods, it is just a short walk from the Berlin Wall Trail (Berliner Mauerweg). Along the trail, an info board shows the very photo I remember: A young school boy on his bike with a British military vehicle on his heels. It turns out, Erwin Schabe’s family home is still standing. He hasn’t lived there for many years. The current owner of the home sells beer, soft drinks and ice cream to passer’s by.

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic and current events, people, places and food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.