Walled In Berlin

Walking Horses Ownership Clarified

August 16th, 2021

The “Walking Horses” are two-ton sculptures, standing 16 feet high and 33 feet long and are worth millions. They were custom-made for Adolf Hitler by Austrian sculptor Josef Thorak. The bronzes disappeared from the former East Germany shortly before the fall of the Berlin Wall and were recovered again in 2015 during a raid of a ring of illegal art dealers. Following a lengthy legal battle that ended on 26 July 2021, the two bronzes will now be returned to the German Government.

New Reich Chancellery: garden portal, 1939. Walking Horses Sculpture in courtyard of Hitler’s New Chancellery, www.walled-in-berlin.com. Photo: Bundesarchiv, Bild 146-1985-064-24A / CC-BY-SA.

History of the Walking Horses

At the peak of the Nazi regime, Hitler commissioned thousands of artworks. He intended to exhibit them in Berlin, Germany, as part of the transformation of the city into the world capital of “Germania“. Among the artworks were the twin “Walking Horses,” which once guarded the courtyard of Hitler’s New Chancellery. In 1943, when the first Allied bombs fell on Berlin, Hitler had the bronzes evacuated to an unknown location. The New Chancellery was badly damaged in World War II and later destroyed by Soviet forces.

Lost and the Found

In 1988, a West German art historian discovered the two horses on a sports field at a Soviet base near Eberswalde, approximately 35 miles northeast of Berlin. However, within a year, shortly before the fall of the Berlin Wall, the sculptures disappeared without a trace. In 2015, West German police found the long-lost masterpieces in a warehouse in southern Germany. An illegal art dealer had acquired them from the Soviets and smuggled them out of East Germany in pieces, disguised as scrap metal. The German government plans to put the twin Walking Horses on exhibit.

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic and current events, people, places and food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.

Tags: Adolf Hitler, artwork, fall of the Berlin Wall, Germania, Hitler's New Chancellery, Walking Horses
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Spell Checker – a Blessing or a Curse?

July 19th, 2021

I wonder whether the spell checker function is a blessing or a curse. Spell checker corrects my writing in ways that I don’t necessarily appreciate. There would be no harm done, of course, if I took the time to carefully review my message before hitting the “send” button. But my eyes fly over the words “seeing” what I meant to write, not what I actually did write. I think this author hit it on the money when she wrote the Ode to the Spell Checker:

I wonder whether turning on the spell checker function is a blessing or a curse. www.walled-in-berlin.com

ODE TO THE SPELL CHECKER

Eye halve a spelling checker.

It came with my pea sea.

It plainly marks four my revue

Miss steaks eye kin knot sea.

Eye strike a key and type a word

And weight four it two say

Weather eye am wrong oar write

It shows me strait a weigh.

As soon as a mist ache is maid

It nose bee fore two long

And eye can put the error rite

Its rare lea ever wrong.

Eye ran this poem threw it

I am shore yore please two no

Its letter perfect awl the whey

My checker toiled me sew.

— Author unknown

Tags: spell checker
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Entenschnabel – a Cold War Relic of the Berlin Wall

June 21st, 2021

Entenschnabel (duck’s bill in English) is one of the last remaining Cold War relics in Berlin. Nicknamed for the narrow strip of residential land in the shape of a duck’s bill, it gives the visitor an idea of the magnitude of the impact of the Berlin Wall on civilian life during the Cold War. “Entenschnabel” protrudes from Berlin’s Glienicke district (former East Berlin) into the Reinickendorf district (former West Berlin). This roughly 650-yard-long and 100-yard-wide piece of land has a unique history.

1989 aerial photo of Entenschnabel in the upper left corner. www.walled-in-berlin.com

History of Entenschnabel

Berlin’s district of Reinickendorf purchased the land in 1907 and, thirteen years later, incorporated it into its newly established and posh Fronau neighborhood. Until the 1950s, there was nothing unusual about the small community. Residents and visitors came and went freely. After 1952 however, when the Cold War deepened, West Berliner were all of a sudden denied access to the community. After the Berlin Wall was constructed in 1961, Entenschnabel residents were also prevented from gaining access to the surrounding western part of the city.

The Bizarre Course of the Berlin Wall Relative to Duck’s Bill

When the city of Berlin was divided into four Allied occupation sectors in 1945, Entenschnabel became part of the Soviet sector. Of the four sides of the strip of residential land, only one side was open to the Soviet sector. The other three sides abutted the French sector. That posed a grave security problem for East German authorities. When the Berlin Wall was constructed, border fortifications had to be less extensive than usual in this area because the “almost enclave” was so narrow. The wall ended up running directly through the Entenschnabel residents’ gardens for the next 28 years.

Entrance to Entenschnabel on Silvesterweg. – Where the Berlin Wall once ran. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2019. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Life for Entenschnabel Residents During the Berlin Wall Years

East German border security classified Entenschnabel as an inhabited special restricted area, which required special observation. Due to its high-risk location, only people who were considered loyal to the regime were allowed to make their home on the small strip of land. Nonetheless, since the risk of fleeing over the wall into the west remained high, residents and visitors alike were subject to special restrictions. All visitors, including doctors, craftsman, repairmen and delivery services were required to obtain a permit before entering the area. In addition, empty buildings were used by the Ministry of State Security (Stasi) to construct radio technology. All contact with their western neighbors was forbidden to Duck’s Bill residents.

Tags: Allied occupation sectors, Berlin Wall, Cold War, Division of Berlin, Duck's Bill, Entenschnabel, Stasi
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Berlin’s Titania-Palast has a glorious past

May 17th, 2021

Berlin’s Titania-Palast is one of the few remaining cinemas in Berlin that dates back to the days of silent movies and the early days of sound film. The theater opened on 26 January 1928 and accommodated an audience of 2,000. Its large Art Deco foyer, red velour-covered walls and gilded elements imparted a feeling of elegance and sophistication. Louis Armstrong, Josephine Baker, Maurice Chevalier, Marlene Dietrich, Zarah Leander, Yehudi Menuhin and Hank Williams were among the world-class stars who performed here.

The cinema of the past

Initially, Berlin’s Titania-Palast showed only silent movies, accompanied by an orchestra of up to 60 musicians. But already one-and-a-half years later, the first sound film, “The Singing Fool” flickered on the screen.

The building survived World War II unscathed. While prior to World War II, visitors had enjoyed movies, theater performance and film screenings, post-war the Titania-Palast became an important center of the social and cultural life in Berlin. It was here that the Berlin Philharmonie gave its first post-war concert in 1945. It was here that the Free University was founded in 1948. It was here that the Berlinale, a renowned annual film festival, was founded in 1951. And it was here that the Insulaner, a prominent cabaret group, frequently performed.

After the construction of the Berlin Wall in 1961 and the rising popularity of television, the number of visitors to the Titania-Palast steadily declined. Berlin’s Titania-Palast went broke. In 1966, the Berlin Electrical Works leased part of the building. Retail shops leased the remainder.

Berlin’s Titania-Palast today

For 30 years, only the 1920s façade was a reminder that the cinema had seen better days. In 1995, the building was completed gutted and remodeled to include seven projection halls. But that is where the similarity between the old and the new Titania-Palast ends. The stately building is a cinema once again, but just like Café Kranzler, today’s Titania-Palast shares only its name with the once glamorous cinema.

Berlin’s Titania-Palast has a glorious past. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons, licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.5 Generic license. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Tags: Berlin, Berlinale, first sound movies, Free University Berlin, Insulaner, silent movies, Titania Palast
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Living a Long Life versus Getting Old

May 3rd, 2021

It’s paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn’t appeal to anyone.

— Andy Rooney, American Television Writer

The idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn’t appeal to anyone. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Tags: getting old, long life
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Happiness is a journey not a destination

April 19th, 2021

Happiness is a journey, not a destination!

For a long time, it seemed to me that life was about to begin – real life. But there was always some obstacle in the way, something to be gotten through first, some unfinished business. Then life would begin. Finally, it dawned on me that these obstacles were my life.

The new perspective has helped me to see that there is no way to happiness. Happiness is how you perceive your life. So, treasure every moment. Treasure it even more when you can share it with someone special. And remember that time waits for no one.

Happiness is a Journey. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2013 .www.walled-in.berlin-com

Stop Waiting for the Right Moment

So stop waiting until you finish school, until you go back to school, until you turn 21, until you lose ten pounds, until you gain ten pounds, until you start work, until you get promoted, until Friday night, until Sunday morning, until the first or the fifteenths of the month, until you get married, until you have kids, until the kids leave home, until you get a new car or a new home, until your car or home is paid off, until you get divorced, until spring, summer, fall, or winter, until your song comes on, until you’ve had a drink, until you’ve sobered up, until you retire, until you die, or until Covid 19 has run its course. There is no better time than right now to be happy.

Tags: COVID-19, happiness is a journey, Time waits for no one, treasure every moment
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Little Church in the Green – a Magical Place

March 15th, 2021

The Little Church in the Green, or “Kirchlein im Gruenen” as it is called in German, is a tiny, picturesque place of worship tucked into the forest outside the small village of Alt Placht. Alt Placht is located near the town of Templin in the northeastern part of the State of Brandenburg, Germany. The area is part of the water-rich Uckermark Lakes Nature Park, a 350 square mile reserve north of Berlin. German Chancellor, Angela Merkel, grew up in this area. Her father, pastor Horst Kasner was instrumental in saving the quaint little church from demolition.

The Little Church in the Green (Kleines Kirchlein in Gruenen) is a magical place in the village of Placht, not far from Templin in the northeastern part of the State of Brandenburg in Germany. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2019. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Origin of the Little Church in the Green

The Kirchlein im Gruenen is truly a magical place. Surrounded by linden trees that are older than the church itself (the trees date back to the 1500s), it looks like something straight out of a fairytale. Already during the Middle Ages, a small church stood on this spot. Then, around 1700, a small house of worship was constructed to serve as a chapel to the Alt Placht manor. The present-day Little Church in the Green was built on the foundation of the original manor chapel. Its architectural style corresponds to the half-timbered buildings in northern France. Therefore, historians believe that this charming little chapel was built by Huguenot refugees.

The Kirchlein im Gruenen Undergoes a Period of Decay

With time, the little church fell into disrepair, and from 1970 on it was in partial ruins. Vandals stole its antique box locks and door fittings. Its bronze bell, dating from 1721, was sold to the St. Elisabeth Abbey in Berlin in 1980. Eventually, the Kirchlein im Gruenen became such an eyesore that it was slated for demolition. But there was no money to knock it down.

Rescue and Restoration of the Little Church in the Green

After the Fall of the Wall in 1989 and the German reunification in 1990, a citizen group formed with the goal of restoring the little church to its former glory. A West Berlin architect who had fond childhood memories of the Little Church in the Green, started the initiative. Pastor Horst Kasner, Merkel’s father, chaired the group from 1997 until his death in 2011. Renovation began in 1993. The first service took place a year later. There had been no service for 30 years. The bell was brought back in 1995, and the restoration project was largely completed by 1997. In 2002, the organ was consecrated. Since then, baptisms, intimate weddings, Easter and Christmas services and concerts are held on a regular basis.

Tags: Alt Placht, Angela Merkel, Horst Kasner, Kirchlein im Gruenen, Little Church in the Green, Templin, Uckermark Lakes Nature Park
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Fifth Season of the Year – Fools Time in February

February 16th, 2021

Germany enjoys an unofficial Fifth Season every year, the fools time. Wedged between some of the cold days of winter, the Fifth Season in 2021 will be celebrated from February 11 to February 16. Depending on the region, fools time is called different names and involves slightly different customs. Although it originated in the Catholic regions of the country, Protestant areas, such as Berlin, celebrate as well. But no matter what it is called, the Fifth Season ends at midnight on Shrove Tuesday. The next day, Ash Wednesday, is the official beginning of the 40-day Lenten period of fasting.

Carnival is the Fifth Season in the Rhineland

In the Rhineland, the Fifth Season of the year is called Karneval (carnival in English). The word is Latin-based and originated in the 17^th century. Pre-Lenten celebrations were already popular in the Middle Ages but were prohibited later during the French occupation. In 1804, the ban was lifted, and after the French left in 1815, it became the custom to mock the Prussian military during Karneval.

The biggest Karneval celebration takes place in Koelln (Cologne), and its biggest event is the Rose Monday parade. The parade stretches out for almost four miles and takes place two days before Ash Wednesday. It is best known for its political and social parodies and elaborate floats that poke fun at local, national and international politicians and events. Rhyming speeches, called Buettenreden, are also an integral part of the celebrations. These spoofs take their name from the barrel-shaped podium used by the speaker, the Buett.

Fasching in Berlin

In Berlin and other parts of Northern Germany, the Fifth Season is called Fasching. The word dates back to the 13th century and is derived from a Germanic expression that refers to the last serving of alcoholic beverages before Lent. Fasching is the time to dress up as devils, pirates, American Indians, princesses, animals, fruits and vegetables. No floats, no speeches.

Typical Fasching costume worn in Berlin during the Fifth Season in the 1960s. Realism was not a requirement. The feather authenticated the costume. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 1963. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Fastnacht in Mainz

The term Fastnacht is mostly used in the city of Mainz in Northern Germany and in Swabia and Switzerland. The term “fastnach” without the (t) at the end, means “night of being wild and foolish.” Participants often wear masks. Over the years, Mainz has been the home of some of the best fools time humorists. In the 1960s, two men, Otto Duerr and Georg Berresheim, were outright famous. The duo masqueraded as two cleaning ladies who shared their wisdoms. If you google “frau babbisch und frau struwwelisch” on YouTube, you’ll be able to watch a dated version of one of their 1960s performances. The quality of the video isn’t very good, but boy, does it bring back memories.

Tags: Ash Wednesday, Buettenreden, Carnival, Cologne, Fasching, Fastnacht, Fifth Season, frau babbisch und frau struwwelisch, Georg Berresheim, Karneval, Koelln, Lent, Otto Duerr, Rose Monday, Shrove Tuesday
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Political Party or a Conspiracy to Seize Power?

February 15th, 2021

“If a political party does not have its foundation in the determination to advance a cause that is right and that is moral, then it is not a political party; It is merely a conspiracy to seize power.”

— Dwight D. Eisenhower, 34th President of the United States and a member of the Republican Party, during a speech at the 4th Annual Republican Women’s Conference on 6 March 1956.

What might President Eisenhower have concluded after listening to the second impeachment trial of Donald Trump?

In 1956, President Dwight D. Eisenhower delineated the difference between a political party and a conspiracy to seize power. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Tags: Basis of a political party, conspiracy to seize power, Donald Trump impeachment trial, Dwight D. Eisenhower, Republican Party, Speech at the 4th National Women's Conference in 1956
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It’s easy to fool people – politicians do it every day

February 1st, 2021

It’s easier to fool people than to convince them that they have been fooled.

— Mark Twain

It’s easier to fool people than to convince them that they have been fooled, a quote by Mark Twain. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Tags: being fooled, fool, lies, Mark Twain, politics, promises, rhetoric
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