Eiskeller Boy With Chutzpah Adds to Berlin Wall Drama

August 19th, 2019

 

Eiskeller is a tiny rural community along the western boundary of Berlin. The area of less than 0.20 square miles was a West Berlin exclave during the Cold War and connected to West Berlin proper by a narrow 13-foot wide road. Of course, both sides of the road were regularly patrolled by East German police to make sure that East German citizens would not defect to the west by way to Eiskeller. Also known as the coldest spot in all of Berlin (hence the name “ice cellar),” this small community added some intrigue to Cold War history. Here is what happened:

Eiskeller Boy is Detained by East German Guards

Erwin Schabe was a twelve-year-old schoolboy in 1961 when the Berlin Wall went up. He lived with his parents in their Eiskeller home and attended school in the West Berlin district of Spandau, just half a mile down the road. Every day, he rode his bike down the only road to Spandau. One day, he told his parents that he did not want to go to school that day because East German police had detained him the day before. Now he was afraid of riding his bike down that lonely stretch of road.

British Occupation Forces Provide Protection

Erwin’s parents immediately reported the incident to the British Occupation Forces since Eiskeller was located in the British Zone. In order to ward off an International incident, British military police quickly came to Erwin’s aid. For the next few days, a British armored reconnaissance vehicle accompanied the boy on his half-mile ride to school.

 

A British armored reconnaissance vehicle accompanies Erwin Schabe along the half mile from Eiskeller to Spandau in 1961, shortly after the construction of the Berlin Wall. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2019. www.walled-in-berlin.com

A British armored reconnaissance vehicle accompanies Erwin Schabe along the half mile from Eiskeller to Spandau in 1961, shortly after the construction of the Berlin Wall. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2019. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Without delay, the photo went around the world, showing little Erwin on his bike holding a sack lunch and followed by a British military vehicle. Instantly, he became famous and received letters of encouragement and praise from people throughout Germany. A West Germany civil servant even invited him to vacation in West Germany for a week. That’s as much of the story I was familiar with until recently.

My 2019 visit to Eiskeller

Imagine my surprise when I read that Erwin Schabe publicly admitted 33 years later that his story was pure fiction. https://www.berliner-zeitung.de/schulschwaenzer-gesteht-nach-33-jahren-seinen-streich–freiheits-kind–enttarnt-17280662 The Berlin rascal had invented the incident because he needed an excuse that would allow him to skip school that day.

 

Road from Eiskeller to Spandau in 2019 (now paved). The same road Erwin Schabe took to school in 1961. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2019. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Road from Eiskeller to Spandau in 2019 (now paved). The same road Erwin Schabe took to school in 1961. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2019. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Curious about what the half-mile Eiskeller road might look like today, I visited the tiny community, now home to three families, on a recent visit to Berlin. Located on the edge of the Spandau woods, it is just a short walk from the Berlin Wall Trail (Berliner Mauerweg). Along the trail, an info board shows the very photo I remember: A young school boy on his bike with a British military vehicle on his heels. It turns out, Erwin Schabe’s family home is still standing. He hasn’t lived there for many years. The current owner of the home sells beer, soft drinks and ice cream to passer’s by.

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic and current events, people, places and food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.

 

Live without aging or age without living?

August 12th, 2019

While many would like to live without aging, in actuality they age without living.

— Alexander Mitscherlich

 

While many would like to live without aging, in actuality they age without living. www.walled-in-berlin.com

While many would like to live without aging, in actuality they age without living. www.walled-in-berlin.com

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic or current events, people, places or food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.

 

Berlin Wall Trail Retraces Former Wall

August 5th, 2019

 

The Berlin Wall Trail (Berliner Mauerweg) is a 100-mile hike and bike trail that retraces the course of the Berlin Wall, which encircled the western half of the city for 28 years. In many places the path makes use of old patrol roads formerly used by East Berlin border guards or West Berlin customs agents.

Cobble Stones Mark Former East/West Border

Immediately after the Fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989, Berliners wanted to forget that the “Wall of Shame” had ever existed. They could barely wait for it to be torn down. But a few years later they decided that some visual reminders should remain. After all, the 12-foot Berlin Wall is part of the city’s history. Following reunification, when massive new construction projects threatened to commit to oblivion the memory of the Berlin Wall, many Berliners wanted to make its former path more visible again. That is why double rows of cobble stones snake through the city today. The cobbles mark the former East/West border.

 

Cobble stone border markers showing the course of the former Berlin Wall. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2019. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Cobble stone border markers showing the course of the former Berlin Wall. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2019. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Creation of the Berlin Wall Trail for Hikers and Bikers

In 2002, the city also began work on the 4.4 million Euro Berlin Wall Trail project. It consists of a 100-mile hike and bike trail that is divided into 14 segments, each between 4.5 and 13 miles in length. Along historically significant sections, the city installed information boards with photos, texts and maps. In some areas, remaining pieces of the Berlin Wall are left in place. The Berlin Wall Trail also cuts through forests and long stretches of natural beauty.

 

Berlin Wall Trail (Berliner Mauerweg) sign near Eiskeller. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2019. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Berlin Wall Trail (Berliner Mauerweg) sign near Eiskeller. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2019. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Eiskeller – a Community near the Berlin Wall Trail

I was particularly interested in visiting Eiskeller, a tiny rural community and former West Berlin exclave not far off the Berlin Wall Trail. In 1961, a photo from this hamlet had gone around the world, and I will always remember the picture. It was taken the year the Berlin Wall went up when I lived in West Berlin. The black and white photo showed a young Eiskeller boy riding his bike to school along a narrow country road. A British military vehicle followed closely behind. The acompanying narrative became even more incredible decades later. I hoped to find the Eiskeller site by hiking the Berlin Wall Trail, and I was in luck. Get a chuckle when you read the full Eiskeller story in my next blog.

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic and current events, people, places and food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.

 

Ethics – A simple Concept to Grasp

July 29th, 2019

 

Ethics is knowing the difference between what you have the right to do and what is right to do.

— Potter Stewart

What is it about ethics that so many leaders and others in high places don’t get?

Ethics is knowing the difference between what you have the right to do and what is right to do. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Ethics is knowing the difference between what you have the right to do and what is right to do. www.walled-in-berlin.com

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic or current events, people, places or food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.

Berlin’s Tiergarten – From Hunting Ground to Public Park

July 22nd, 2019

 

The German name Tiergarten translates to “animal garden,” but despite the name, it is not a zoo. Instead, it is Berlin’s second-biggest inner-city park. Only Tempelhofer Freiheitthe former Tempelhof Airport expanse, is larger. The 520-acre Tiergarten serves the same “green lung” function as London’s Hyde Park (310 acres) or New York’s Central Park (825 acres).

Relaxing in Berlin's Tiergarten. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2019. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Relaxing in Berlin’s Tiergarten. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2019. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Friedrich I of Prussia (Frederick I), Elector of Brandenburg and later first King of Prussia, laid out the park in the 17th century. At that time, the land was located just outside of Coelln’s city wall, Berlin’s twin city. Today – redesigned and expanded several times – the Tiergarten is bordered by the River Spree to the northeast and the zoo to the southwest. It’s ideal for recharging. Small streams pass through grassy areas dotted with groups of trees and small lakes. Countless pathways cross the park and make it a popular place for jogging, cycling, boating, walking, family picnics and winter skating.

Royal History of the Tiergarten

Until 1881, the Tiergarten was owned and controlled by the various kings and emperors in power. Friedrich I (Frederick I) created the park to serve as his royal hunting ground. His successor, Friedrich Wilhelm I (Frederick William I of Prussia) began to transform the Tiergarten into a forested park. His son, Friedrich II, also known as Frederick the Great, (Frederick the Great) opened the area to the public. He commissioned many sculptures and created a pheasant house. The latter eventually became the core of the Berlin Zoo.

The Beethoven-Haydn-Mozart Memorial - one of many statues in Berlin's Tiergarten. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2019. www.walled-in-berlin.com

The Beethoven-Haydn-Mozart Memorial – one of many statues in Berlin’s Tiergarten. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2019. www.walled-in-berlin.com

The Tiergarten in the 20thCentury

WWII brought significant changes to the Tiergarten. Many statues were destroyed, and surviving monuments lay badly damaged on their sides. Berlin’s citizens even buried some of them near Bellevue Palace to protect them from destruction. In 1993, the statues were recovered, several years after German reunification.

In the aftermath of the Second World War, the Tiergarten became part of the British Occupation Zone of West Berlin. Because coal was in extremely short supply at the time, many of the park’s trees were turned to firewood. Every bridge in the park was destroyed, and there were plans to fill the small lakes with war debris. Only 700 trees survived.  For a time, the deforested fields were turned into 2,550 plots of farm land to grow potatoes and vegetables. The once beautiful forest of over 200,000 trees had nearly disappeared.

Replanting the Tiergarten

In March 1949, Berlin’s first post-war major, Ernst Reuter, planted the first tree, a linden. Between 1949 and 1959, 250,000 young trees were planted. Most of them were donations from all over Germany. Thanks to those efforts, the Tiergarten is once again a green oasis in the middle of bustling Berlin.

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic and current events, people, places and food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.

 

How to Spot Fake News

July 15th, 2019

How to spot fake news. You are entitled to your own opinion, but you are not entitled to your own facts.

— Daniel Patrick Moynihan

How to spot fake news. You are entitled to your own opinion, but you are not entitled to your own facts. Photo courtesy of rawpixel.com from Pexels. www.walled-in-berlin.com

How to spot fake news. You are entitled to your own opinion, but you are not entitled to your own facts. Photo courtesy of rawpixel.com from Pexels. www.walled-in-berlin.com

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic or current events, people, places or food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.

 

Unter Den Linden – Berlin’s Grandest Boulevard

July 8th, 2019

 

Unter Den Linden (Under the Linden Trees) is Berlin’s grandest boulevard. It is located in the historic heart of the city and named for the 1,000 linden trees in its spacious pedestrian median and along both sidewalks. Friedrich Wilhelm I (Frederick William I), Elector of Brandenburg and later King of Prussia, originally planted the trees in the 17th century. But in the 1930s, Adolf Hitler had most of them cut down and replaced with Nazi flags. Following a public outcry, he had them replanted. Nonetheless, during World War II, the trees were either destroyed or cut down for firewood. The present-day linden were planted in the 1950s.

Under den Linden - Berlin's grandest boulevard with the Brandenburg Gate in the background. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2019. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Under den Linden – Berlin’s grandest boulevard with the Brandenburg Gate in the background. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2019. www.walled-in-berlin.com

History of Unter Den Linden

Unter den Linden stretches from the Brandenburg Gate to the Berlin City Palace (Berliner Stadtschloss). The famous boulevard began as an equestrian trail in the 16thcentury to allow prince-elector Johann Georg (John George) of the Margraviate of Brandenburg to reach his hunting grounds in the Tiergarten. In the middle of the 17th century, Friedrich Wilhelm I of Prussia replaced that equestrian trail with a stately tree-lined boulevard.

Unter den Linden anchors

The Brandenburg Gate stands at the western boundary of Unter den Linden. Of the original fourteen city gates it is the only one that survived the ravages of time. During the Cold War, the Brandenburg Gate became a symbol of freedom. At the eastern end of Unter den Linden stands the City Palace, currently under reconstruction and slated for completion in 2020.

Points of Interest along Unter den Linden

Located immediately east of the Brandenburg Gate is the Pariser Platz (Paris Square). It was heavily bombed during World War II and became a no-man’s-land during the Cold War. But since German reunification in 1990, its pre-WWII embassies, hotels and banks have returned, including the famous Hotel Adlon. Further down Unter den Linden you’ll see the restored Berlin State Library, the renowned Humboldt University, the Bebelplatz (site of the infamous Nazi book burning in 1933), the State Opera, the Catholic St. Hedwig’s Cathedral, the German History Museum, the Neue Wache (now the Central Memorial of the Federal Republic of Germany for the Victims of War and Dictatorship) and the Berliner Dom.

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic or current events, people, places or food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.

 

Politicians are the same all over

July 1st, 2019

 

Politicians are the same all over. They promise to build a bridge even where there is no river.

— Nikita Khrushchev

Politicians are the same all over. They promise to build a bridge even where there is no river. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2016. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Politicians are the same all over. They promise to build a bridge even where there is no river. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2016. www.walled-in-berlin.com

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic or current events, people, places or food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.

 

Der Schwarze Kanal – Former Propaganda Program

June 24th, 2019

 

For almost 30 years, Karl-Eduard von Schnitzler hosted “Der Schwarze Kanal” (the Black Channel), a weekly East German television program that could also be received in West Germany. Der Schwarze Kanal’s main purpose was to rival the West German news program, Die Rote Optik (Red Viewpoint). During his 20-minute broadcasts, von Schnitzler edited, twisted and put a new spin on West German news stories. In his political commentaries he examined the West’s “fictional” truth and pontificated on the East’s “factual” truth.

Karl-Eduard von Schnitzler, host of “Der Schwarze Kanal” (the Black Channel), a weekly East German propaganda program. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Karl-Eduard von Schnitzler, host of “Der Schwarze Kanal” (the Black Channel), a weekly East German propaganda program. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Meaning of the name “Der Schwarze Kanal”

“Black channel” is a euphemism used by German plumbers to refer to the sewer. By choosing the name Der Schwarze Kanal for his show, von Schnitzler tried to create a visual image of black capitalist filth. In every segment of his show, he hammered in that evil lurked around every corner in the West. He relentlessly pointed to the wrongs of capitalism: exploitation of workers, capitalist greed, massive unemployment, etc. He fixated on the theme that the West oppressed the working man while vilifying peaceful and hard-working East Germany.

Viewership of “Der Schwarze Kanal”

From 1960 to 1989, the program aired around 9 pm, just before or after the Monday night movie. Timing was critical because von Schnitzler wanted viewers to be already tuned in without having to decide whether or not to watch the program. In reality, Der Schwarze Kanal was the least popular show on East German television. Some surveys concluded that viewership ranged in the 5% range. Von Schnitzler became known as “Sudel-Ede.” Ede stood for his name Eduard, and “Sudel” for the longing to wallow in mud.

About Karl-Eduard von Schnitzler

Karl-Eduard von Schnitzler did not come from a family of socialists. He actually was a great-grandchild of the Prussian Emperor Friedrich III. But despite his aristocratic background and his influential relations in West Germany, von Schnitzler was a fervent socialist. Following WWII, he worked for a short time in the West German city of Cologne. But in 1947, he immigrated to East Germany and became the regime’s most zealous propagandist.

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic or current events, people, places or food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.

 

Be thankful for bad things in life

June 17th, 2019

Be thankful for the bad things in life for they opened your eyes to the good things you weren’t paying attention to before.

— Anonymous

Be thankful for the bad things in life for they opened your eyes to the good things you weren't paying attention to before. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Be thankful for the bad things in life for they opened your eyes to the good things you weren’t paying attention to before. www.walled-in-berlin.com

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic or current events, people, places or food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.