Archive for the ‘Walled In Berlin’ Category

Berlin Wall Memorial

Monday, September 12th, 2016

 

The Berlin Wall Memorial (Berliner-Mauer-Gedenkstaette) opened on 9 November 1999, the 10th anniversary of German reunification. The memorial was created to pass on the history of the city’s 44-year division and the Berlin Wall’s 28-year existence. For years after the border opened in 1989 the German people demanded, “The Wall must go.” They wanted to forget the monstrosity that had separated families, friends and neighbors. Therefore, most of the Berlin Wall was demolished. But a few sections of the Wall escaped the bulldozer, among them a stretch at Bernauer Strasse, including a preserved section of the death strip.

 

Preserved Berlin Wall section at the Berlin Wall Memorial, photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2014, www.walled-in-berlin.com

Preserved Berlin Wall section on exhibit at the Berlin Wall Memorial, photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2014, www.walled-in-berlin.com

From Division to the Berlin Wall and Bernauer Strasse

After World War II, Berlin was divided into a Western and an Eastern section. American, British and French forces occupied the western section; Soviet forces occupied the eastern section. In 1961 the East German government built a wall around West Berlin to prevent East Germans from fleeing to West Berlin. As a result, West Berlin became an island surrounded by East Germany. Bernauer Strasse was right on the border between East and West Berlin. The border along this street ran in such a way that the roadway, both sidewalks and the buildings on the north side ended up in West Berlin, but the buildings on the south side turned out to be in East Berlin. Soon, Bernauer Strasse became a symbol of the inhumanity of the Berlin Wall.

After the construction of the wall, the protestant Versoehnungskirche (Church of Reconciliation), built in 1894, ended up in “no man’s land,” inaccessible to residents of either West or East Berlin. The church tower was even used by border guards as a watchtower. In 1985 the East German government detonated the church. Today, the Chapel of Reconciliation stands at the very site where the Reconciliation Church once stood and serves as a place for contemplation.

Berlin Wall Memorial

Bernauer Strasse is the only place in Berlin where visitors can still see a section of the border fortifications with all its installations and barriers. The Berlin Wall Memorial extends 4,500 feet along the former border between East and West Berlin at Bernauer Strasse. Between Ackerstrasse and Bergstrasse, the visitor can still see the last sections of Berlin Wall with the preserved grounds behind it and the extent of the border fortifications. Of the 96 miles of former Berlin Wall, close to 700 feet have been preserved and are on exhibit.

 

Berlin Wall Memorial site with the Chapel of Reconciliation to the upper left and the preserved border strip to the right, photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2014, www.walled-in-berlin.com

Berlin Wall Memorial site with the Chapel of Reconciliation to the upper left and the preserved border strip to the right, photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2014, www.walled-in-berlin.com

The Berlin Wall Memorial runs along both sides of Bernauer Strasse. The Visitor and the Documentation Center are located on the side of the street that formerly belonged to West Berlin. At the Visitor Center two films are shown and information is available about the entire memorial site. The Documentation Center shows an exhibition about the division of the city and has a viewing platform from which visitors can see a 230-foot long section of preserved border area, including the death strip and a watchtower. The surviving border elements reflect the complexity of the border fortifications: the border strip lying between the border wall facing west and “hinterland security wall” facing east, and the additional perimeter defenses installed to prevent any approach to the border strip from its eastern side. The original remains of the Berlin Wall have been preserved as an historical monument, but where sections of the Wall no longer exist, reddish steel poles allude to the Wall. The poles mark where the Berlin Wall used to stand. If observed from a sharp angle, the poles seem to form a solid wall.

 

Steel poles alluding to the part of the Berlin Wall that no longer exists - Berlin Wall Memorial - photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2014, www.walled-in-berlin.com

Steel poles alluding to the part of the Berlin Wall that no longer exists – Berlin Wall Memorial – photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2014, www.walled-in-berlin.com

You may recall photographs that show people trying to escape to West Berlin by jumping from windows. These photos were taken at Bernauer Strasse. One of the most famous is that of border guard Conrad Schumann who fled to the West by leaping over the barbed wire fence at Bernauer Strasse.

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic and current events, people, places and food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.

 

 

Why ships sink

Thursday, September 8th, 2016

 

Ships don’t sink because they are surrounded by water. They sink when too much water gets inside of them.

Sailboats on a sunny afternoon. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2016. www.walled-in-berlin.com

Sailboats on a sunny afternoon. Photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2016. www.walled-in-berlin.com

The moral of the story: Don’t let what happens around you get inside of you and weigh you down.

— Anonymous

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on the home page of http://www.walled-in-berlin.com

 

Fallen Leaves in Berlin’s Jewish Museum

Monday, September 5th, 2016

Fallen Leaves is a powerful symbolic art installation in the Jewish Museum Berlin. One of the largest such museums in Europe, Berlin’s Jewish Museum actually consists of two buildings. The visitor enters through the baroque Kollegienhaus, an old gilded building (originally built as a courthouse http://www.walled-in-berlin.com/j-elke-ertle/berlins-kammergericht-appellate-court/ and later used by the Berlin Museum), and descends into the basement level of a stark, postmodern building. The 161,000 square foot new concrete structure, designed by Daniel Libeskind, has three corridors: the Axis of Exile with the personal effects of Jews who fled Germany during the 1930s on display, the Axis of the Holocaust with displays of letters and photographs of murdered Jews on exhibit and the Axis of Continuity, showing 2,000 years of German Jewish history.

Fallen Leaves installation

The most power installation for me was Fallen Leaves (Shalekhet), displayed in one of several empty “voided” spaces in the museum. The bare concrete Memory Void runs through the entire building. Its only light emanates from a small slit at the top of the space. Here the ground is covered with 10,000 flat iron disks that visitors are free to walk on. The disks are pressed into the shape of faces with crude cutouts for eyes, nose and mouth. The mouths are contorted and look like they might be screaming silently. The faces symbolize those lost during the Holocaust as well as the victims of war and violence in general. The display was designed by Israeli artist Menashe Kadisman.

 

Fallen Leaves - Symbolic Art Installation in the Jewish Museum Berlin, photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2016, www.walled-in-berlin.com

Fallen Leaves – Symbolic Art Installation in the Jewish Museum Berlin, photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2016, www.walled-in-berlin.com

What is the meaning of voids?

Libeskind created “voids” to symbolize the history and humanity lost as a result of the Holocaust. The architect explains that the voids represent “what can never be exhibited.” Libeskind created five voids – angular openings – in the Jewish Museum Berlin. Three of the voids are inaccessible. The visitor can only look into them through slit-like windows. The two accessible voids are: The Void of Voidness is an unheated tower with the only light emanating from a narrow slit in the roof. The other accessible void is the Void of Memory with the Fallen Leaves installation.

 

Void of Voidness, Jewish Museum Berlin, photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2016, www.walled-in-berlin.com

Void of Voidness, Jewish Museum Berlin, photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2016, www.walled-in-berlin.com

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic and current events, people, places and food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.

 

More or less – the choice is yours

Thursday, September 1st, 2016

Hope more – Fear less

Chew more – Eat less

Breathe more – Whine less

Say more – Talk less

Love more – Hate less

–Mueritzer Bauernmarkt, Klink, Germany

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on the home page of http://www.walled-in-berlin.com

Hackesche Hoefe with Old-Berlin Charm

Monday, August 29th, 2016

 

Hackesche Hoefe is a group of eight interconnected, beautifully restored courtyard buildings in the historical center of Berlin. A heritage site since 1972, they represent the largest, enclosed courtyard area in Germany. The project combined art, work, eateries and entertainment – a novel idea at the time. Today, the Hackesche Hoefe are one of the trendiest spots in Berlin because they possess that Old-Berlin charm that captivates the hearts of tourists and locals alike. But that charm came at a price.

 

ackesche Hoefe, Berlin, courtyard layout, photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2015, www.walled-in-berlin.com

Hackesche Hoefe, Berlin, courtyard layout, photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2015, www.walled-in-berlin.com

Hackesche Hoefe: outside swank – inside rank?

On the outside, the Hackesche Hoefe were a creative and successful venture. But on the inside, the courtyards were haunted by persistent financial failures. It all began in 1858 when Hans Quiltz, a glass manufacturer, acquired a license for commercial use of the then vacant lot. When real estate prices exploded in the early 1900s, his heirs built the series of eight interconnected buildings on the site. The Quiltz heirs did not built basic tenements, however, as was common at the time, http://www.walled-in-berlin.com/j-elke-ertle/heinrich-zille-and-his-milieu/ they opted for an upscale mixed-use project. Therefore, the Hackesche Hoefe held offices, a banquet hall and industrial space in the front. Residential flats with balconies, central heating and parquet flooring were constructed in the back.

 

Hackesche Hoefe with Old-Berlin charm, photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2015, www.walled-in-berlin.com

Hackesche Hoefe with Old-Berlin charm, photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2015, www.walled-in-berlin.com

In 1907 Kurt Berndt, a property developer, and August Endell, an architect, took over the property and restored the front courtyard (Hof 1) in Art Nouveau style with ceramic tiles that Endell had designed himself. Initially, the project was doing well, but WWI changed everything. One tenant business after the other foreclosed, and in 1924 the Quiltz heirs were forced to sell the Hackesche Hoefe.

The new buyer, Jakob Michael, was flush with cash. But when several of his other real estate investments began to fail in the wake of the worldwide economic crisis and he became involved in a bribery scandal on top of it, the Hackesche Hoefe went into receivership. However, Michael retained some interest in the project because one of his other business ventures, a department store, was able to purchase the property in a foreclosure sale. http://www.tagesspiegel.de/kultur/berliner-hoefe-8-die-hackeschen-hoefe-in-mitte-schabernack-ist-abgeschafft/12312774.html

Following WWII, the Soviet Military Administration requisitioned the Hackesche Hoefe. The grand banquet hall was turned into a canteen and storage space. The restaurant, which had closed in 1927 already, became an automotive shop for Trabants, the popular East German cars. And in 1951, a tenant’s association turned the building into a resident-owned apartment building.

By the time of the German reunification in 1990, Michael had passed away. His U.S. heirs received restitution and sold the property to Roland Ernst in 1993. Ernst, a West German real estate tycoon, purchased the Hackesche Hoefe for 24 million Mark and spent an additional 60 million Mark to bring the courtyards back to their original 20th century style and use. By 1997, restoration was complete, but Ernst did not get to enjoy the finished project for long. He went into bankruptcy in 2000 and was forced to sell the property to a group of investors. They, too, ran into financial difficulties and sold to a real estate concern in 2004. The most recent buyer prefers to remain anonymous. So far, all is well with the Hackesche Hoefe.

Where are the Hackesche Hoefe?

The Hackesche Hoefe are located between Rosenthaler Strasse 40 and Sophienstrasse 6, one block north of Hackescher Markt and the S-Bahn station by the same name. “Hoefe,” translates into courtyards. “Hackesche” refers to Count von Hacke, the Prussian General and Commandant of Berlin who was put in charge of the courtyards construction project in 1750. King Friedrich Wilhelm I had ordered the construction to keep up with Berlin’s rapid growth following German unification. http://www.walled-in-berlin.com/j-elke-ertle/otto-von-bismarck-visionary-or-villain/

 

Hackescher Markt with Hackesche Hoefe in the background, photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2015, www.walled-in-berlin.com

Hackescher Markt with Hackesche Hoefe in the background, photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2015, www.walled-in-berlin.com

The Hackesche Hoefe Today

Today the Hackesche Hoefe are one of the trendiest spots in central Berlin with restaurants, cafes and shops. They attract tons of visitors every day. Hof 1 includes a cinema, several bars and restaurants. Hof 2 houses the Chameleon Theatre, as well as several offices. The smaller remaining courtyards are quieter and feature mainly small shops, galleries and apartments.

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic and current events, people, places and food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.

 

Genius as opposed to stupidity

Thursday, August 25th, 2016

 

Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.

— Albert Einstein

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic and current events, people, places and food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.

 

 

Otto von Bismarck – visionary or villain?

Monday, August 22nd, 2016

Otto von Bismarck (1815-1898) was a powerful Prussian statesman, credited with unifying 25 previously independent German states in 1871. As a result of the unification, Germany became one of the most powerful nations in Europe. During most of his nearly 30-year tenure, Bismarck held undisputed control over the government’s policies.

Bismarck’s rise

Born in 1815 to a Prussian nobleman, Bismarck spent his early years studying law and running the family estate. In 1847, he became a delegate to the new Prussian parliament in Berlin. From 1851 to 1862 he held various ambassadorships: he served as an ambassador at the German Confederation in Frankfurt, in St. Petersburg (Russia) and in Paris (France). These posts gave him valuable insight into weaknesses of the great powers of Europe, an understanding he later used to his advantage.

In 1862, Prussian King Wilhelm I appointed him as his Minister President and Foreign Minister. Although technically subservient to the king, it was Bismarck who actually pulled the government strings. In the mid-1860s he orchestrated and won three successive short wars against Denmark, Austria and France. He engineered the wars in order to unify the German states into a powerful German Empire under Prussian leadership. In 1871, Wilhelm I became Emperor and raised Otto von Bismarck’s rank to Fuerst (Prince). The Emperor then appointed him as the first Reichskanzler (Imperial Chancellor) of the German Empire.

For much of the 1870s Bismarck pursued a Kulturkampf (cultural struggle) against Catholicism by placing parochial schools under state control and expelling the Jesuits. But in 1878 Bismarck reversed his position and aligned himself with the Catholics against what he perceived to be a growing socialist threat. To gain the support of the working class and to stave-off calls for more radical socialist alternatives, Bismarck created the world’s first comprehensive government social safety net by establishing national healthcare (1883), accident insurance (1884) and old age pensions (1889). https://www.ssa.gov/history/ottob.html In 1890, following the death of King Wilhelm I, Bismarck resigned at Wilhelm II’s insistence.

 

Otto von Bismarck statue across from the victory column in Berlin, photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2016, www.walled-in-berlin.com

Otto von Bismarck statue across from the victory column in Berlin, photo © J. Elke Ertle, 2016, www.walled-in-berlin.com

Bismarck – the visionary

Many historians praise Bismarck as a visionary for uniting Germany while keeping the peace in Europe. He was able to do so through skilled diplomacy and powerful rule at home and by carefully manipulating the balance of international rivalries. Bismarck has been called a master strategist who possessed not only a long-term national and international vision but also the short-term ability to juggle multi-faceted developments.

 U.S. historian William L. Langer, sums up the statesman by saying, “Bismarck at least deserves full credit for having steered European politics through this dangerous transitional period without serious conflict between the great powers.” (Langer, European Alliances and Alignments: 1871–1890 pp 503–04)

Bismarck – the villain

Other historians condemn Bismarck as a villain who dominated his cabinet ministers and smeared their reputations as soon as he no longer needed them. The historian Jonathan Steinberg portrays him as a demonic genius who was deeply vengeful, even toward his closest friends and family members. Bismarck’s friend, German diplomat Kurd von Schloezer, describes him as a kind of evil genius who successfully concealed his contempt for his fellow men while being determined to control and ruin them. British historian Richard J. Evans states that Bismarck was “intimidating and unscrupulous, playing to others’ frailties, not their strengths.” (Evans ,February 23, 2012, “The Gambler in Blood and Iron,” New York Review of Books)

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic and current events, people, places and food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.

 

 

Tomorrow is a second chance

Thursday, August 18th, 2016

 

Life always offers us a second chance. It’s called tomorrow.

— Mueritzer Bauernmarkt, Klink, Germany

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on the home page of http://www.walled-in-berlin.com

House of One – three faiths under one roof

Monday, August 15th, 2016

Berlin’s House of One, when completed, will be the spiritual equivalent of the confederation of Switzerland, which has four main linguistic and cultural regions. The House of One will bring together three different faiths under one roof: a church, a synagogue and a mosque. The concept of a house of worship shared by Christians, Jews and Muslims is a “first” in the world. It is the hope of the project’s initiators that the House of One will eventually tear down the walls between religions just as the fall of Berlin Wall removed the barriers between East and West Berlin a quarter of a century ago.

What the House of One will look like

Plans have already been drawn. Berlin architect Wilfried Kuehn of Kuehn Malvezzi GmbH designed an interfaith prayer house that has three separate sections. A communal room in the center of the building will link the three areas and seat 380 people. Each of the worship areas will be the same in size but of different shape, allowing each religion to keep its own identity.

Originators of The House of One

The three men now heading the House of One project are: Pastor Gregor Hohberg, Rabbi Tovia Ben Chorin, and Imam Kadir Sanci.

Protestant pastor Gregor Hohberg of Berlin’s St. Marienkirche (St. Mary’s) first conceived of the idea of an interfaith house of worship when a 2009 redevelopment excavation unearthed the ruins of Berlin’s very first church. That archaeological discovery pointed to fragments of the foundation of St. Petri (St. Peters), built in the 13th century. The church was named after St. Peter, the patron saint of fishermen. St. Petri had already been destroyed and rebuilt several times when the communist government of East Germany decided to demolish the church altogether in the 1960s. Currently, a parking lot occupies the space.

Location of the House of One

Once built, the House of One will be located at the Petriplatz (Petri Square) in the historical birthplace of Berlin between Breite Strasse and Gertraudenstrasse. In medieval times, the square was not located in the historical center of Berlin but that of Coelln, Berlin’s sister city. http://www.walled-in-berlin.com/j-elke-ertle/coelln-and-berlin/

Funding of House of One

The religious leaders are still in the process of raising funds for the construction of the House of One. The goal is to raise 43 million euros and to finance the project entirely through crowdfunding, by selling bricks for €10 each. http://house-of-one.org/en So far, one million euros have been raised. Construction is to begin in earnest once the first €10,000,000 has been raised.

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on my home page and feel free to follow my blog about anything German: historic or current events, people, places or food.

Walled-In is my story of growing up in Berlin during the Cold War. Juxtaposing the events that engulfed Berlin during the Berlin Blockade, the Berlin Airlift, the Berlin Wall and Kennedy’s Berlin visit with the struggle against my equally insurmountable parental walls, Walled-In is about freedom vs. conformity, conflict vs. harmony, domination vs. submission, loyalty vs. betrayal.

 

 

The anatomy of a lie

Thursday, August 11th, 2016

 

People never lie so much as after a hunt, during a war or before an election.

— Otto von Bismarck

(Not much has changed since the 19th century, has it?)

 

For a sneak peek at the first 20+ pages of my memoir, Walled-In: A West Berlin Girl’s Journey to Freedom, click “Download a free excerpt” on the home page of http://www.walled-in-berlin.com